Napoli is a city like no other, a place where breathtaking beauty collides with a tragic, untamed energy. The streets of the old city are alive—dense, chaotic, and impossible to escape. People, scooters, vendors, and history all crush together in a sensory storm that can overwhelm and exhilarate at the same time. Pulling yourself off the fray is nearly impossible, and why would you want to?

Nestled between two living volcanoes—Mount Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei—Napoli trembles literally and figuratively. Sometimes there are up to 200 small tremors a day, and after centuries of natural and human drama, the locals have earned the right to be a little pazza (crazy) on a daily basis. It’s in the energy, the gestures, the music in the streets, and the passion that radiates from every corner.

This was my second time in Napoli, and it captivated me just as fiercely as the first. They call it the heart of Italy, and for good reason: the warmth of the people, the risk, the love, the art, the food, and the unforgettable characters make it so. Napoli is a city of extremes, and it has claimed a permanent place in my heart—one of my favorite spots on the planet.